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Is Blue Bleach Better Than White?

FarmaVita Life blue and white bleaching powders with scoops of powder, beside the question Is blue bleach better than white?

Blue or white? It's one of the first choices you make when you pick up a lightener, and it's easy to assume the blue one must do more. In practice, the colour of the powder matters far less than what's printed on the pack.

Here's the short answer. Blue bleach is a lightener with a blue colourant added; white bleach is the same idea without it. Choose on the pack, not the colour: the lift, whether it can go on the scalp, the developer strength, the mixing ratio and the maximum time. Then judge the lifted hair and tone to your target.

To find out more about diluting lightener for a softer lift, read How to bleach bath hair.

For professional use. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your lightener and developer.


What is blue bleach?

It's a lightener with a blue pigment mixed into the powder. The lifting is done by the same ingredients as in a white lightener; the blue is there to help counter orange and yellow tones while you lighten.

A blue powder isn't a toner, though. Lighteners that tone at the same time are separate products, so a blue powder still lifts like a standard lightener.


Is blue bleach better than white?

Not on its own. Blue and white versions of the same lightener often give the same lift and the same maximum time, so the colour isn't what decides the result.

What does make the difference is the hair you start with, how porous it is, and the developer you choose for where you're working: a lower strength on the scalp, and a higher one off it if your lightener allows. Pick the lightener that suits the service, and let the lifted hair guide your next step.

 


Does blue bleach mean you can skip the toner?

Don't count on it. Lightening doesn't take out all of the hair's natural pigment, so lifted hair still has some warmth to deal with. Judge the lifted hair itself, then tone to your target, whatever colour the powder was.


Which bleach powder is best for hair?

The one whose pack fits the service. Check it for:

  • Format: powder, granules, cream or clay.
  • Lift: the maximum lift it gives.
  • Scalp use: whether it can go on the scalp, and at what developer strength.
  • Ratio: the mixing ratio.
  • Time: the maximum development time.
  • Dust: whether it's dust-free.

Scalp limits vary from product to product. Many lighteners allow up to 6% (20 vol) on the scalp, with higher strengths off the scalp only. Whichever you choose, 12% (40 vol) is the most a hair product can contain in the UK.


Is dust-free bleach powder worth choosing?

Yes, for your own sake. Dust-free powders release less powder into the air while you mix, though they don't get rid of it completely, so think of them as lower-dust rather than no-dust.

Bleach powder dust can irritate the airways, so it's worth looking after yourself every time you mix: keep the salon well ventilated, wear disposable non-latex gloves and choose dust-free products where you can.

Pro Tip: Mix your lightener in a well-ventilated spot and put on fresh disposable non-latex gloves for every client, whichever powder you use.


What steps should you follow with any lightener?

Blue or white, the service follows the same order.

  1. Skin test before the appointment. Follow the skin test instructions on your lightener and developer packs, at the timing they give. If your client has reacted to lightener or hair colour before, don't go ahead.
  2. Strand test with a small separate mix. Mix a small amount on its own, apply it to a strand and check the lift before you do the whole head.
  3. Mix the main bowl fresh. Mix it just before you apply, at the ratio on the pack.
  4. Watch the time. Never go past the maximum development time on the pack, and don't add heat unless the pack allows it.


Blue vs white bleach FAQs

What's the difference between white and blue bleach?
The blue one has a blue colourant added. Within the same range, the lift and timing are often the same, so compare the packs rather than the colours.

Can you use blue bleach on the scalp?
That depends on the pack, not the colour. Many lighteners, blue or white, can go on the scalp with 6% (20 vol) developer or below. Always check the on-scalp limit for the lightener in your bowl.


Best Products For Choosing A Lightener

A blue and a white powder from the same FarmaVita Life range, with the developer the blue powder's page names for its mix.


Read next: How to bleach bath hair

Written by Amy-Louise Russell, Content Writer at Hairdressing Supplies.

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