What Does Bond Builder Do for Hair?

When your client wants to go lighter, a bond builder is one of the simplest things you can add to the service. It goes straight into the lightener bowl and is designed to protect the hair's internal bonds while the lightener works. It won't make lightening damage-free, but it's an easy step to build into a careful service.

Here's the short answer. Lightener breaks down many of the hair's strongest bonds as well as its pigment, and a bond builder is designed to form new links with the hair's protein while you lighten. Use the amount and order on your bond builder's own pack.

For professional use. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for your lightener, developer and bond builder.

To find out more about adding it to a bleach bath, read How to bleach bath hair.

What does bond builder do for hair?

Lightener doesn't just lift colour. It also breaks down some of the strong bonds that give hair its strength, and the stronger the lightening, the more the hair is affected.

A bond builder is designed to latch on to the hair where those bonds have broken and form new links while you lighten. They aren't the hair's original bonds, but they're there to support the hair through the service.

What can a bond builder do, and what can't it?

Used as directed, bond-building treatments can leave bleached hair stronger than lightening alone. What they can't do is undo damage that's already there or make lightening damage-free. Think of a bond builder as support during the service, alongside the right developer, careful timing and a strand test.

Every bond builder has its own formula, so its own instructions set the amount, the order and the timing.

How do you add bond builder to bleach?

Follow the amount and order your bond builder's maker gives. A typical two-step system works like this: step 1 goes into the bowl once the lightener and developer are mixed, and step 2 goes on after the shampoo. Never borrow one brand's ratio for another.

Here's the full order for a lightening service with a bond builder:

1. Skin test before the appointment. Do it as your lightener's pack directs, allowing the time the pack gives. If your client has reacted to a hair product before, ask them to speak to a pharmacist or GP before you go ahead.
2. Put on suitable gloves. Wear them for every mix, including the strand test, and to apply and rinse.
3. Strand test with a small separate mix. Mix a little lightener and developer at the pack's ratio, add the bond builder at the maker's amount, apply it to a strand and check it as the pack directs. Testing the exact mix you'll use, bond builder included, shows you the lift and condition before you commit to the full head.
4. Prepare the hair as the lightener's pack directs.
5. Mix the main bowl fresh, just before you apply it. Mix your lightener and developer at the ratio on the pack. Once the bowl is properly mixed, add the bond builder at the amount its pack gives.
6. Apply and develop within the pack's limits. Never go past the lightener's maximum time, and add no heat unless the pack allows it.
7. Rinse carefully and shampoo.
8. Apply step 2 to damp hair. If your bond builder has a second step, leave it on for the time on its pack, then rinse.

Pro Tip: Weigh your powder and measure the bond builder exactly as its pack says, rather than adding it by eye. The same dose every time makes your results easier to repeat.

Does bond builder change the development time?

Check your bond builder's instructions, as some say you don't need to change it. Your strand test shows you how the mix behaves on your client's hair before the full service. Whatever bond builder you use, never go past the lightener's maximum time.

Does bond builder change your developer or skin test?

No. In the UK, developer for hair use can't go above 12% (40 vol), and adding a bond builder doesn't change that. Use only the strengths your lightener lists.

Your skin test and gloves stay exactly as they are, too. The persulphates in lightener can cause allergies, and hairdressers are more likely to develop one, so wear gloves every time and never leave lightener on longer than the pack allows.

Quick answers on bond builder

Does a bond builder make bleaching damage-free?
No. Lightener still oxidises the hair's protein with a bond builder in the bowl. The bond builder is designed to form new links with that protein during the service, so it works alongside good technique rather than replacing it. Keep to your lightener's developer, timing and heat limits.

Do all bond builders use the same amount?
No. Each has its own formula and instructions, so use the amount on its pack rather than borrowing another brand's ratio.

Best Products For Adding Bond Builder to Bleach

Osmo's Chromaplex step 1 for the bleach bowl, FarmaVita's Omniplex step 2 for after the service, and Fanola's bond fixer for colour and bleach mixes. Use each system's own steps together.

Osmo Chromaplex Bond Builder #1 500mlA bond builder for any professional colour or bleach service: add 3ml per 30ml of the mixed colour or bleach, then follow with Chromaplex Bond Sealer #2. FarmaVita Omniplex No.2 Bond Reinforcer 500mlStep 2 of the Omniplex system, made to stabilise the bonds, nourish the hair and seal the cuticle after colour and bleach services. Fanola Fiber Fix N.1 Bond Fixer 300mlPart of the Fiber Fix range: a bond fixer for technical services such as colouring and bleaching, added to the colour or bleach mixture in the recommended amount.

Read next: How to bleach bath hair

Written by Amy-Louise Russell, Content Writer at Hairdressing Supplies.